France has introduced new fees on ultra-fast fashion products sold by companies such as Shein and Temu, as the government steps up efforts to curb excessive clothing consumption and reduce textile waste.

The charges took effect on Tuesday following legislation approved in June, with fees ranging from €0.25 on items such as underwear and socks to €12 on coats.

However, the charge cannot exceed 50 per cent of the product’s pre-tax price.

The French government said the measures are designed to discourage the mass production and sale of very cheap clothing while encouraging more sustainable practices among manufacturers and consumers.

The new policy places additional pressure on major fast-fashion platforms, particularly Shein, which has faced increasing regulatory scrutiny in several major markets.

Shein’s French representative, Quentin Ruffat, had previously warned that the charges could eventually result in higher prices for consumers. Neither Shein nor Temu immediately commented on the new French measures.

The policy has also drawn criticism from China, with its commerce ministry accusing France of unfairly targeting Chinese companies and warning that the measures could affect international trade.

Beijing has further questioned whether the French legislation complies with World Trade Organization rules.

The financial burden on fast-fashion companies is expected to increase substantially from 2030, when the calculation of the charges will take into account factors including the volume of products sold, their prices and whether the items are repairable.

The scale of Shein’s operations highlights the potential impact of the measures. The company reported having more than two million products listed on its platform as of March 31, with approximately 4,700 new clothing designs added daily.

French officials expect traditional European fashion retailers such as Inditex, the owner of Zara, and H&M to face a smaller financial impact because their online catalogues contain significantly fewer products.

The new fees form part of wider European efforts to address the environmental impact of the textile industry.

Under European Union rules, member states are required to operate Extended Producer Responsibility schemes through which textile companies contribute towards the collection, sorting and recycling of discarded clothing.

In France, the funds generated from the new charges will go to the organisation responsible for financing the collection, reuse and recycling of textiles, with manufacturers and importers of affected products responsible for the payments.